Panther Chameleon

Overview

Panther chameleons are one of the brightest and varied colour lizard in the pet trade. Their incredible visual display is one of the reasons this pet lizard is so popular amongst reptile keepers and breeder. Though Panther chameleons are one of the more common chameleon breeds kept in captivity, there are many species of chameleon available, all which have similar care requirements. The main requirements of keeping a panther chameleon is 1. space, 2. patience, and 3. a green thumb! Panther chameleons are arboreal which means they need a large enclosure that is taller than it is wide, often taking up space in the home. See the section on housing recommendation for in depth recommendations. Chameleons can be moody and fragile. It is important that new keeper understands that chameleons are typically "look only" pets and may not have the patience for much if any handling. Their nature is to blend in (no surprise) so it is to their benefit to have an ample amount of safe live plants int heir enclosure to not only provide a sense of safety but also to naturally control humidity and temperature. If kept correctly, chameleons can be an incredible addition to any home willing to put in the work.

Housing recommendations

In the wild chameleons have large territories only coming into contact with other chameleons for breeding and territorial purposes. For this reason it is recommended that chameleons in captivity are kept alone as it is stressful to be constantly fighting for territory or mating and can lead to a short lifespan, and fighting. Being arboreal, Panther chameleons utilize vertical space over horizontal space. Not to say they should be void of horizontal space, but when looking for an enclosure, make sure to provide an enclosure that is at least 36 inches tall. In nature, they hang out in the mid to high range of the canopy where the air circulation is moderate to high. In captivity we can recreate this by providing an enclosure with at least 2 sides made of mesh or screen. for lighting there are 2 parts. the first is UVB lighting which is essential for health. This should be provided in the form of a linear bulb that spans across the top of the enclosure diagonally. a T4Ho UVB bulb is what we recommend and can purchased from online retailers such as Arcadia and Zoomed. We recommend a 5.0 or 6% UVB bulb. The second source of light will come from a heat bulb. In order to get the heat from the bulb to be in the POTZ for basking, use a heat gun when setting up the fixture. We recommend a 65 watt BR30 flood light for basking *make sure it is not LED as LED does not provide heat*. A deep dome is recommended for the basking bulb to avoid thermal burns. When filling out the interior of the enclosure, provide ample live plants with leafy coverage. this aids in controlling the temperature and humidity as well as providing hiding opportunities for the chameleon making them feel safe and reducing stress. In addition to live plants, humidity should be controlled by use of misting. This can either be provided by hand misting the entire enclosure twice daily with reptile safe water, or can be done using an automated misting system. Misting is best done in the morning and evening mimicking dew.

Feeding

Panther chameleons are insectivores and should only be fed live insects. Adult chameleons can be fed 2-3 times per week and should be offered supplements at every feeding *see supplement section below*. Feed a variety of insects

Dietary supplementation

Panther chameleons need special vitamins in minerals added back into their diet. In the wild, the insects that are eaten by the chameleons have been naturally exposed to, and carry with them vitamins and minerals from their diet and interaction with the pollens and plants in their environment. These vitamins and minerals are then passed to the individual that preys upon such insects. In captivity, insect feeders are most commonly farm bred and raised without the natural exposure of these vitamins and minerals and therefore these key components need to be added back into their dietary regimen. These supplements include:

Special considerations

Handling

As with all reptiles, handling is not a necessary component of the Panther Chameleon's care and if provided with ample environmental stimulation and space, they can lead a long and happy life without the need for handling. Though it is not necessary, some Panther Chameleons can tolerate handling well if exposed to it slowly and from a young age. Chameleons are delicate and therefore special care needs to be taken when interacting at all times. Some chameleons tolerate handling more than others so it is important to tailor the duration and frequency of handling depending on the comfort levels of your pet gecko.

Hydration

In the wild chameleons will lick the dew off of the leaves in the morning hours. In captivity, hydration can be offered to chameleons by a combination of misting the enclosure to mimics the dew and providing a dripper system which dispenses a drop of water from the top of the cage every few seconds creating movement which then attracts the chameleon. Chameleons will not drink from standing or still water so offering a water bowl will lead to dehydrations.

Colour changing

One of the most fascinating talents of chameleons is their ability to change colour. Contrary to popular believe, chameleons no solely change colour to blend in to their environment, but rather its main purpose is communication. A relaxed or sleeping chameleon may show pale or brightly coloured designs while angry, stressed or defensive chameleons tend to display highly contrasted, dark and highly patterned designs warding off predators or competition. Along with communication, chameleons will change to darker colours in order to attract heat from the sun or basking light.


Egg laying in females

Panther chameleons are oviparous (Egg layers). Females can become gravid (carrying eggs) from as young as 4 months old. During the gravid period, female chameleon need to provided with special care and attention. She needs to be provided with additional calcium which can be offered int he form of additional feedings dusted with calcium, or with calcium rich feeders such as black soldier fly larvae. Creating the exterior of her eggs will take a lot of calcium away from her and if she is deficient in calcium due to diet/supplementation, her body will take the calcium from her organs and bones in order to form the eggs, leaving her with health issues. Additionally, she needs to be provided with a safe place to ay her eggs. If she does not have an egg laying area she may not release hr eggs leading to egg binding and possibly serious complications. Her lay bin should consist of an opaque bin that is a minimum of 8" deep and 12" wide, filled with a mix of black earth top soil (no fertilizer) and plain sand. This mixture should be moist enough that if you poke a finger into the mixture it will stay in place. This is to ensure the burrow she will dig does not collapse and trap her beneath the surface. You will know when your female is gravid when her colours change to gravid colours and she begins to look swollen around the mid-low abdomen. When nearing egg laying, she will create a few "test" borrows in the soil. a female spending too much time at the bottom of the enclosure during the day or resting with her eyes closed during the day might be in danger of complications and a vet should be contacted ASAP. Once finished with the egg laying process, she will burry between 10 and 40 eggs and return to her normal activities.